Maxi Tiles

July 23, 2020

Late one night, instead of sleeping, I was browsing Facebook…

and I came across a post where someone shared a photo of a pretty design she saw on the wrapper for her feminine hygiene products. Everyone agreed this pattern could be beautiful in crochet-form!

So, here is my version.

You can also buy a nice PDF on Ravelry.

I created it in both interlocking and mosaic (because that’s who I am now lol). I like my color choices but unfortunately it was just a ball of random leftover stuff and I don’t know the brand or colorway.

You can create one tile at a time and sew them together or do a bunch of repeats until your piece is as big as you want it!

Yarn weight and hook size can easily be adjusted, just keep in mind your finished project will use a different amount of yarn and be a different finished size.

If you share your works on Instagram, tag me: @AshleesLint

Mosaic Pattern and Interlocking Pattern can be found below.

US Crochet terminology
Finished size approximately 5”
- Each repeat adds about 4”
4.5 mm hook (US7)
Worsted weight yarn (40 yards)
- Main color – 20 yards
- Contrasting color – 20 yards
  - Each repeat adds about 10 yards of each color
Mosaic Gauge: 16 stitches x 16 rows = 4″
LFM Gauge: 16 stitches x 8 rows = 4″

Calculating the RepeatsYou can make one tile at a time and sew a bunch of squares together (handy if you want lots of different colors) or you can repeat the pattern all in one go and make it as wide and high as you like!

The pattern below is written for 5 repeats – you can adjust anywhere it says x5.How wide do you want your blanket? Let’s pick 60” as an example (that’s a throw sized blanket); if you’re matching my gauge this is the formula: 60” / 4” per repeat = 15 repeats.

Remember that if you do 15 repeats across you will also need to do 15 repeats for height.

Mosaic KeyMC = Main Color: black in chartCC = Contrasting Color: white in chartSp = spaceSk = skip a stitchCH = chainSC = single crochetsc = SC into Back Loop onlyDC = double crochetdc = DC into Front Loop of stitch, 2 rows belowJS = Joining Stitch: insert hook under both loops, pull up a loop, slip stitch, SC in same spaceES = End Stitch: SC under both loops, CH 1, cut yarn and pull through tightly

Mosaic TechniquePlease see the YouTube tutorial for more details. I use a single-row mosaic technique. Each square on the chart corresponds to one stitch. There is an additional stitch (not visible on the chart) on each side of the chart for joining and ending. You start at the bottom-right corner of the chart.

The front of your work is always facing you (this is the right side, the side showing the design)
You are always working from the right to the left
You tie on a new yarn at the beginning of each row and cut it at the end
- Tails don’t need to be longer than an inch and a half
Yarn colors can be anything you like
- They need to contrast well (try a black and white photo to see if they are too similar)
- They need to be the same weight (size/thickness)
- My charts use black as the Main Color and white as the Coordinating Color
I prefer using a chainless SC to create my foundation row because then I have tails on both sides of my work just like all the other rows will have
Even-numbered rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC

Mosaic Pattern begins here

Foundation Row: use Main Color (MC) (black on the chart)Use a chainless SC technique to create (16 SC) x5 +7 SC. Or, chain (16 SC) x5 +8, SC in 2nd from hook and all the way back across. Cut and tie off.

Switch to Contrasting Color (CC) {Remember: even- rows use MC; odd-numbered rows use CC}1 – JS, sc5, (sc16) x5, ES2 – JS, dc1, sc3, (sc16) x5, dc1, ES3 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, (sc16) x5, dc1, sc1, ES4 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7, dc1} x5, sc1, dc1, ES5 – JS, sc1, {(dc1, sc1) x8} x5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, ES6 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {sc3, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc7, dc1} x5, sc1, dc1, ES7 – JS, sc1, dc1, {(sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1) x2} x5, sc1, dc1, sc1, ES8 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {sc5, dc1, sc1, dc1, (sc3, dc1) x2} x5, sc1, dc1, ES9 – JS, sc1, dc1, {sc7, (dc1, sc1) x4, dc1} x5, sc1, dc1, sc1, ES10 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {sc7, dc1, (sc3, dc1) x2} x5, sc1, dc1, ES11 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, (sc16) x5, dc1, sc1, ES12 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {(sc3, dc1) x2, sc7, dc1} x5, sc1, dc1, ES13 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, {(dc1, sc1) x4, dc1, sc7} x5, dc1, sc1, ES14 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {(sc3, dc1) x2, sc1, dc1, sc5, dc1} x5, sc1, dc1, ES15 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, {(dc1, sc1, dc1, sc5) x2} x5, dc1, sc1, ES16 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1} x5, sc1, dc1, ES17 – JS, sc1, {(dc1, sc1) x8} x5, dc1, sc1, dc1, sc1, ES18 – JS, dc1, sc1, dc1, {sc7, (dc1, sc1) x2, dc1, sc3, dc1} x5, sc1, dc1, ESRepeat rows 3-18 x5 or until desired height.19 – JS, sc1, dc1, sc1, (sc16) x5, dc1, sc1, ES20 – JS, dc1, sc3, (sc16) x5, dc1, ES

Tie your ends together.Trim the fringe.Add a border if you want.

Interlocking Pattern begins here

Take note, if you’re used to doing my patterns, the foundation rows are different for this one!

Interlocking KeyRS = right side: the side of your work that will show the finished designWS = wrong side: the back of your projectFront = the side currently facing youBack = the side not facing youCh = chainSp = spaceSk = skip a stitchSC = single crochetDC = double crochetF = DC in front, then CH 1B = DC behind, then CH 1ES = DC into the last window spaceEF = end stitch in front: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working in front of MCEB = end stitch in back: using AC, DC into the last AC window, working behind MCACF = bring the AC yarn to the side facing youACB = put AC yarn to the side facing away from you

Interlocking Foundation Rows

Using MC create 8 (x5) + 2 windows. I prefer the chainless technique using triple/treble crochet but alternatively you can Ch 16 (x5) + 8 (or 9 if you chain tighter than me), then DC in 6th (or 7th) Ch from your hook. Ch 1, Sk 1, DC repeat until the end. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel.
With your AC, Ch 16 (x5) + 6 (or 7 if you chain tighter). Place MC windows on top of this chain (make sure the end with the stitch marker is at your left) and DC through the back of the SECOND window into the 6th (or 7th) Ch from your hook. See pictures below.
Ch 1, Sk 1, DC through back repeat until the last stitch where you will place your DC in front of the MC. Place stitch marker so your work doesn’t unravel. Both stitch markers should be on the same end.

WS – ACB (wrong side facing you, AC to back)4 MC – Ch3, (1B, 3F, 3B, 1F) x5, 1B, ES5 AC – Ch3 in back, (8B) x5, EB

RS – ACF6 MC – Ch3, 1F, (1B, 3F, 3B, 1F) x5, ES7 AC – Ch3 in front, {(2B, 2F) x2)} x5, EF

WS – ACB8 MC – Ch3, {(1B, 1F) x2, 2B, 2F} x5, 1B, ES9 AC – Ch3 in back, (5B, 3F) x5, EB

RS – ACF10 MC – Ch3, 1F, {3B, (1F, 1B) x2, 1F} x5, ES11 AC – Ch3 in front, (8B) x5, EF

WS – ACB12 MC – Ch3, 1B, {3F, (1B, 1F) x2, 1B} x5, ES13 AC – Ch3 in back, (3F, 5B) x5, EB

RS – ACF14 MC – Ch3, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, 1B, 1F, 1B, 2F, 2B, 1F, ES15 AC – Ch3 in front, {(2F, 2B) x2} x5, EF

WS – ACB16 MC – Ch3, (1B, 1F, 3B, 3F) x5, 1B, ES17 AC – Ch3 in back, (8B) x5, EB

Repeat rows 4-17 x5 or until desired height

RS – ACF34 MC – Ch3, 1F, (3B, 3F, 1B, 1F) x5, ES35 AC – Ch3 in front, (8B) x5, EFCut and tie off AC

WS36 MC – Ch3, 1B, (8B) x5, ESCut and tie off, OR continue with border.

SC BorderCh1, put 2 SC in each gap on all four sides. Add an extra ch2 space in each corner (corner gap will have 2sc, 2ch, 2sc).

FINISHED!Take a picture and share it!@Ashleeslint #lockedfiletmeshcrochet

What does this mean?This is an original pattern by Ashlee Brotzell. You may not copy, reproduce, sell, or share any part of it whether for profit or not. This includes, but is not limited to, the written pattern, the chart, and the photos. No translations or video tutorials are allowed. Sales of your finished items are, of course, unrestricted (and I wish you all the best!). I appreciate credit given to the designer when possible but it is not a requirement. You may tag me @AshleesLint or direct people to my website www.ashleeslint.com